In Fukuoka City, home to Palaceside Building's sister property Mainichi Fukuoka Kaikan, the traditional "Hakata Gion Yamakasa" festival began on July 1. Through the 15th, Fuk-Haku (Fukuoka and Hakata together) turns festival-red.
Fukuoka is linked to NHK's taiga drama "Gunshi Kanbei." Ratings struggle in Kanto unlike Kanbei's battles, but Fukuoka holds its own. This year's yamakasa should draw even more tourists and locals.main photo shows a rehearsal "Oiyama Narashi" from two years ago; viewing from Kushida Shrine's prime spot was breathtaking.
What catches eyes first are "decorative floats" (kazariyama)—over 10 meters high, adorned with Hakata doll figures by local artisans, unveiled at Kushida and 12 other sites. Front ("omote") figures are often warriors; rear ("mikuri") figures delight children with anime heroes. Many floats feature domain founder Kuroda Kanbei (Josui), continuing from last year. Rokuban Yamakasa Chiyo-ryu tells one story on front and send-off sides, replaying drama episodes and battles. Jusanban Kawabata Chuo-gai shows "Gunshi Kanbei" (photo above). Send-off figures include "Anpanman" (photo below) and "Sazae-san."
Hakata's bond with the Kuroda clan: ordered by Hideyoshi, Kanbei rebuilt Hakata with merchant help—the "Taiko town division."
The name Fukuoka comes from Nagamasa, Kanbei's heir, naming his new castle "Fukuoka" after the Kuroda homeland in Bizen's Fukuoka sho.
Fukuoka and Hakata meet at the Naka River through the city center; Mainichi Fukuoka Kaikan stands on its bank—in the "Fukuoka" side.
With 773 years of tradition, decorative yamakasa and the heroic "kakiyama" carried past crowds at full sprint are the draw. Kakiyama also lavishly display Hakata dolls front and rear. Men in loincloths and happi coats carry roughly one-ton floats through the streets—overwhelming. Seven schools (nananagare) based on Taiko-era Hakata towns. After a 10-day eve "Nagarekaki," kakiyama start in earnest; afternoon of the 12th is "Oiyama Narashi"—a 4 km rehearsal run with "Oisa!" chants. On the 13th, kakiyama cross the Naka into Tenjin—the only time they enter Fukuoka ward; Mainichi Fukuoka Kaikan staff splash blessing water. The climax is "Oiyama" on the 15th.