I visited Hakone on summer vacation — belatedly, I know. Within two or three hours of central Tokyo, hot springs and museums abound; Tokyoites have a fine resort nearby.

First stop: Hakone Glass Forest Museum. "Drops of the Adriatic — Sparkling Venetian Beads" (hosted by The Mainichi Newspapers and others) was on view. Venice dominated Mediterranean trade in the Renaissance; from Murano Island, master craftsmen created Venetian beads. Over 100 rosaries, bags, and accessories were splendid. Photo top: "Necklace and Earrings in Lampwork" (1838) — large pink beads with pearl-layer glass finely engraved with the Doge's Palace and St. Mark's Square. Craftsman Giovanni Battista Franchini reportedly refused the Austrian emperor and donated the piece to the island glass museum. Through November 25. Admission: adults 1,300 yen, high school 1,100 yen, junior high and below 800 yen.

For hot springs, Yunessun is a family favorite — endless warm pools and baths. The slide pool = photo bottom = is popular with kids.

Hakone means Odakyu Romancecar, now on the Chiyoda Line linking resort and city. From Otemachi next to Takebashi, weekday 9:56, holidays 9:13 and 14:43 to Hakone-Yumoto (~2 hours). Return: holiday 17:04 from Hakone-Yumoto; or stay Sunday night, leave Hakone-Yumoto 5:26, connect at Odawara, Romancecar from Hon-Atsugi 6:28, arrive Otemachi 7:25 — hard but Sunday stays are cheaper.