Last week I wrote about "three great △△," and by chance, visiting Boso in Chiba the other day, I was surprised to learn Katsuura's morning market is one of "Japan's three great morning markets." With over 400 years of history since the Azuchi-Momoyama period, some 70 stalls line the street. Fresh fish is filleted on the spot; seasonal vegetables abound. Dried fish and tsukudani are superb. Walking while munching a ¥200 mound of warabi mochi brings pure happiness.
The other two: first, Wajima Morning Market (Wajima, Ishikawa)—over 1,000 years since the Heian period, with 100–250 open stalls. The third is Miyagawa Morning Market (Takayama, Gifu), begun in the Edo period at its present site since 1953, with 50–70 shops in a row. Wajima and Katsuura offer rich seafood; mountain Takayama focuses on fresh vegetables and fruit.
From central Tokyo such as Takebashi, where Palaceside Building stands, Katsuura is closer than you might think: about 1.5 hours on the JR Sotobo Line limited express from Tokyo Station, or just over 2 hours via Chiba on the Sobu Line rapid and transfer. From Takebashi, take the Tokyo Metro Tozai Line to Nishi-Funabashi, then JR Sobu–Sotobo—about 2.5 hours.
Katsuura's market splits between Shimohonmachi and Nakahonmachi by the first and second halves of each month, both a 10-minute walk from JR Katsuura Station. The city website says, "If you get lost, feel free to ask a passerby"—rather nice, isn't it!