Today, February 2, is Setsubun. If that felt a little odd to you—yes. In a typical year it is February 3. This year a shift in the calendar put Risshun on February 3, so Setsubun moved as well. February 2 Setsubun is the first in 124 years, since Meiji 30.

The Setsubun custom is throwing beans to the cry “Oni wa soto, fuku wa uchi”—demons out, fortune in. The idea of driving off ill and inviting happiness feels just right for this pandemic-weary moment.

Ehomaki, the uncut sushi roll, now seems fully established. Face the lucky direction, eat it in silence, and your wish is said to come true. Seven fillings are often used, after the Seven Gods of Fortune. This morning I bought ehomaki at both convenience stores in the Palaceside Building. I will have them at lunch. This year’s lucky direction is south-southeast.