I went to “Leonardo da Vinci: The Challenge of a Genius” (organized by The Mainichi Newspapers and others). It runs through Sunday, April 10 at the Edo-Tokyo Museum (Sumida Ward). The oil “Madonna of the Yarnwinder,” shown in Japan for the first time (photo at right is the flyer), was over-
whelming. The rest of the show is well worth seeing too.
Leonardo da Vinci (1452–1519), as you know, was born in Vinci, outside Florence. “Leonardo from Vinci.” Artist and scientist, engineer who designed cities, military engineer and musician — one of the Renaissance’s representative artists. Truly a “universal genius.”
“Madonna of the Yarnwinder” is 48.3 centimeters high and 36.8 wide — rather small in person — but the soft touch and the gentle faces of the Madonna and Jesus seized the heart.
It is held by the Duke of Buccleuch in Britain and had not left the country in 77 years. It was once stolen, missing for years, then bought back from the thieves’ side — a work with a story. Only some dozen oils are accepted as Leonardo’s own, including the Mona Lisa, so this is a rare chance to see a masterpiece. With this year the 150th anniversary of Japan–Italy diplomatic relations, the showing in Japan was specially allowed.
Another highlight is the drawing “Studies of a Child” (pho-
to at right). From the Gabinetto dei Disegni e delle Stampe of the Gallerie dell’Accademia in Venice, which holds many Leonardo drawings; through these seven sheets one can see how he honed observation. Leonardo is said to have studied “the movement of the hands” with care as a way to show unseen movements of the mind. One can only admire a style that piles up research and then creates — more than mere “genius.”
I went about ten days ago, a holiday, and it was quite crowded. The photo at the very top is the venue entrance after 11:30 a.m.; 20 minutes to buy a ticket, then two hours to enter, and the red circle, in close-up, becomes like the photo below. The tail of the indoor line to see the Madonna up close reached the entrance. Staff said about 90 minutes to reach the Madonna. That morning NHK had run “The da Vinci That Vanished from the Castle,” on the Madonna theft, so many were likely drawn
by it. (I went early and entered without a wait; I met the Madonna after only about 20 minutes in line.)
Hours are 9:30–17:30, Saturdays to 19:30 (last entry 30 minutes before close). Closed Mondays, except open March 21 and 28; closed Tuesday, March 22.
Admission (special-exhibition ticket) is 1,450 yen general, 1,160 yen for university and vocational students, 730 yen for elementary through high school and age 65 and over (combined tickets with the permanent exhibition also available).